Volcan de Lodo El Totumo: Clear as Mud

anthill

After 7 years, I felt that it was time to return to South America.  Now that Colombia is safe to travel, that was my next destination.  I opted for the sun and warmth of the Caribbean cost as opposed to the chill and potential rain of the mountains.

I’d been told about this volcano that was nearby Cartagena that I must visit.  Instead of spewing hot lava, its crater is filled with warm mud.  Well, considering how much mud treatments are in my country, it was a no brainer to do this for 45000 pesos (~15USD).  Off to the mud volcano we went.  Volcan de Lodo El Totumo is just 50km north of Cartagena.  There are easy tours to jump on to get you out there.

I don’t know exactly what I was expecting but as we approached the volcano, it looked nothing like a volcano but more like an overgrown anthill protruding from the ground.  We were quickly rushed to change into our bathing suits and then sent up these rickety wooden steps.  The locals from the area work for tips there providing such services as photo taking, massages, and washing the mud off your body.  The tips are fixed at 4000 pesos and are optional except for the washing.  After climbing the rickety stairs, I was facing a deep pit that was filled with a viscous mud.

volcan totumo

The rickety stairs.

One by one we were instructed to enter the pit via a wooden ladder.  Basically, when the local boys were finished rubbing someone, they would call the next person in to rub, I mean massage.  Once you get in the pit, if you opt for the massage, they will instruct you to lie backwards as they rub mud all over you.  But let me talk about the mud.  The buoyancy factor is much more than the dead sea.  Even if you could reach the bottom of the pit, you can’t.  No matter how much you try, when you are vertical, you can’t get your shoulders below the surface.  You really have to work your abs while in it because if not you will suddenly find your body turning or losing control of a limb.  I got kicked a few times by others.  Then when they tell you your time is up and you have to leave, good luck moving across the pit to the exit ladder!  It’s so thick that you exert so much energy moving but go nowhere.  Then exiting, oh my!  Of course, since the notion of health and safety has not quite hit this tourist attraction, the rungs of the ladder are slanted and your feet are slippery with mud and the steps are slippery from the accumulation of mud from the others, that climbing out of the volcano is akin to rock climbing.  The only downside of the experience is that it is too short.

mud volcano

But wait! The experience isn’t finished yet!  Getting this mud off of you is an experience in of itself.  We were there 3 months after the last rain, so the level of the volcano was low and the fresh/salt water lagoon that we are supposed to wash in was completely dry.  So locals had buckets of murky (trying to make it sound nice) water that they used bowls to dump onto of us.  This mud is persistent and doesn’t want to come off easily.  So ladies be warned, some people may see things that you don’t intend them to see.  When it came to cleaning off the top of the bikini, they just grab the material and flap it around.  You may very well  find yourself completely exposed.  With the bottoms, if you are lucky like me, she’ll just flap it around while throwing water at you.  But if you are unlucky like my friend, a hand might end up in there to clean the mud out.  Of course, while enjoying the mud you’ve got it in your hair and on your face.  So they dump water over your head without warning, and you can’t breath out of your nose or mouth, but you haven’t taken a breath in.  You are desperately  trying to hold your breath and praying that the water stops but the waterfall in front of your face is longer than your ability to hold your breath.  I had to turn my head to get a breath without swallowing water.  As I did then next deluge of water started. Who would have thought washing could be so dangerous.

Although a very rushed experience, it’s one that is worth it.  It’s these little gems that you find hidden in the corners of the world, that make traveling worth it 🙂